Chiapas in a Cup
If it weren’t for Andreas Kussmaul, this coffee wouldn’t exist.
I would never have made it to the Chiapas region of Mexico – let alone to Los Altos, the northeastern highlands of the state, located about a two-hour drive from the capital, San Cristóbal de las Casas. Andreas was my guide, and today he’s one of the funniest friends I have. Even though he’s based far away in the state of Veracruz, we stay in close touch.
Coffee-growing regions in Mexico are places where you really need some kind of clearance, or at least a Mexican passport, to feel safe. During the long hours on the road, Andreas told me about the challenges local farmers face and about the NKG BLOOM program. In short, it’s an initiative that supports coffee producers around the world. Its goal is to help farmers grow their businesses by providing access to financing, knowledge, modern technology, and markets so they can work more efficiently, increase their income, and move out of poverty. Traveling from farm to farm and visiting coffee warehouses, you could clearly feel the financial and technological support behind the program.
The state of Chiapas, where this coffee comes from, borders Veracruz and Oaxaca to the west, Tabasco to the north, and Guatemala to the east. It’s the same region, yet farms are often only 20–30 kilometers apart – distances that can take 2–3 hours to cover by car due to poor road conditions. Despite this proximity, the same botanical variety can taste completely different from one farm to another. Microclimate and soil play a huge role.
Our El Búho is a blend of Bourbon and Caturra varieties, processed using the washed method. In the cup, you’ll find plenty of sweetness, reminiscent of milk chocolate and caramel. The coffee has a subtle but noticeable fruitiness, bringing to mind mandarins or sweet oranges. As an espresso, it leans toward a sweet, lingering profile, while milk-based drinks taste like toffee, with a smooth, creamy texture.
Mexico is an underrated coffee producer. Its complex history and current political landscape make coffee imports challenging – only about 2% of the world’s available Arabica comes from Mexico. That’s exactly why I’m so happy we can shine a light on this origin and on coffees from the Chiapas region.
